Meeting Mr. Paul

Paul's Bakery has served customers for 50 years at four different locations in Van Buren, Ark. (Photos by Harold McIlvain II)

By Harold McIlvain II

VAN BUREN, Ark.--Things have changed after 50 years for Paul Lehnen.

After opening a bakery at a Van Buren, Ark., location in 1959, the 74-year-old still shows up to work every day.

But the location has changed four times. The number of employees has increased significantly. And the products have been altered.

Lehnen has gradually given more control of the store to his family throughout the years, but Lehnen still helps out with the dream store he built.

“I don’t do it much anymore,” Lehnen said of making donuts. “I started out with three people working with me. But now I have 20. My vision was to have an elaborate donut shop someday.”

And he has done it.

The store features elaborate cakes, cookies ranging from state shaped to local mascots and balloons and party favors.

Lehnen said he started with donuts. But Lehnen challenged himself to find what the customers want, which has included cookies that are bright green and shaped like a frog.

“It’s fun to do different things with the classic products,” Lehnen said. “We do things with different cookie cutters. I’ve even made things as simple as a green frog cookie that recently sold over 300 dozen to a company.”

Although customers will usually stay with their favorite product, Lehnen said people want to try new things.

“I just roll with the punches,” Lehnen said. “You just have to take your chances on something new. I’m always looking for an opportunity to better our product.”

And that has been the case with the cake making side of the business, Lehnen said.

With extravagant cakes being made on several television shows on multiple networks, Lehnen said customers are looking for more than the usual birthday or wedding cake.

“Today they want tiered birthday cakes,” Lehnen said. “Customers want different designs and airbrushing. I taught my girls how to decorate. But my goodness they have surpassed me now.”

But Lehnen said he didn’t always know he would be successful in the industry.

After football season was over in high school, Lehnen said he needed extra money for school supplies. One of the customers he delivered newspapers to had just opened a donut shop, so Lehnen asked if he needed any help.

A week later he was on the job, learning the craft he still tries to perfect today.

“I thought it was something I could learn about and have something to fall back on,” Lehnen said. “Now 50 years later, I’m still learning.”

After returning from the Army as a cook in 1958, a mutual fund investment at the age of 18 was enough money for Lehnen to make a down payment on a building.

And ever since Lehnen opened the doors at the bakery, he has wanted to extend that same opportunity he was given to local high school students.

“I’ve always hired a lot of high school kids,” Lehnen said. “My proudest moment is that I have always hired local high school kids. It’s just a real treat.”

Lehnen said he learned important life lessons like hard work and determination while working at bakery in high school. And watching the development of character with his younger employees in the same environment Lehnen learned has been important to him.

“I feel like I have a feather in my cap when I see youngsters who have gone from high school to bigger and better things,” Lehnen said. “I use to wash dishes, too, and that was apart of the job. If you can do a good job at washing dishes, you can do good in what you want to do.”

Former employees have gone on to work as engineers, bankers and for the state of Arkansas.

“It’s a real gratifying thing,” Lehnen said. “It gives people a pat on the back in the right direction.”

Food or tradition?

When Lehnen opened Paul’s Bakery, he wanted the name to be short and sweet, something people could associate with.

“I wanted them to know about me,” Lehnen said. “I didn’t want it to be named sweet shop or anything else.”

Customers ever since have gotten to know the Fort Smith, Ark., native for a half-century.

“All the kids still ask where Mr. Paul is at the store,” Lehnen said. “Getting to know the kids over the year has been a lot of fun. As long as they are happy, I’m happy.”

He has seen some of the same faces enter his store after 50 years. But even after meeting so many people, Lehnen still enjoys greeting nearly all of his customers.

“Kids tell me that their grandma use to come here,” Lehnen said. “It’s something special.”

And it’s that tradition that keep some coming back for more.

UCA student Megan Batey said she recalls going to Paul’s throughout her childhood.

“My grandma would often take me and my siblings there after school to get a treat,” Batey said. “I can recall going to Paul’s as far back as I can remember.”

But Batey said the food wasn’t the only aspect that attracted her to the store.

“I think it is a nostalgic landmark for almost everyone from Van Buren, Ark.,” Batey said. “The sweets are decent, but I think the memories are what keep the locals coming back.”

Others find the taste of the treats enough to keep them coming back for more.

John Lewis, who has eaten at Paul’s for over 20 years, said the product is always great.

“It’s a place that always has good eats,” Lewis said. “It always does. Once in a while there are mistakes, but 99 percent of the time you get good, wholesome food.”

Former police officer Jonathan Evans said he has been to his fair share of donut shops across the nation. But Evans said he hasn’t found one as successful as Paul’s.

“You don’t see them like this anymore,” Evans said. “It’s just a style of business you can get behind and support. It’s a nice change these days.”

Lehnen said making a quality product has been a big factor in the business throughout the years.

“People are still going to eat quality products,” Lehnen said. “That isn’t going to change. After 50 years, people still want quality products. And they don’t mind paying for it.”